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Entry 01: How it All Started
So where do I start this narrative? At
the beginning...
I began traveling the Baja peninsula
in November of 1999 after meeting a Mexican lady from Playa
Rosarito, about 20 miles south of the San Diego border with
Mexico. It was a friendship which taught me much about Baja
culture, the Mexican people, and about myself. Although after
3 years we parted company and went our separate ways, I have
formed a lasting relationship with Baja California that has
changed my life, and subsequently my view of the world. This
journal is one mans journey into another world, a world that
was right next door to me for most of my life, one never imagined
or experienced; it is a journal of my experiences and travels
in Baja California.
As a burned out refugee from the corporate
environment I was in bad need of a reassessment of my life
and my future direction. Having had a background in commercial
studio photography prior to my "corporate war" years,
I decided to take a huge risk, a gamble actually, and re-enter
the world of professional photography. This time around it
would not be in the studio, but on the road, shooting fine
art landscape and wildlife images. While not restricting myself
to just these venues, I made a decision to start a stock image
photography company, and exploit what I perceived to be a
niche photo market: images of Baja California. As my first
big photographic road trip I had decided to traverse the entire
Baja peninsula, from San Diego to Cabo San Lucas and back,
photographing along the way, traveling in a Toyota 4x4 and
packing everything I'd need for a 30 day photographic adventure.
The original plan had been to take my
Mexican sweetheart with me, but alas, just prior to my departure
date we said a permanent good bye. Here I was all loaded for
bear, suddenly finding myself without my cultural and language
support. While I speak a smattering of Spanish phrases and
individual words my Spanish isn't conversational by any stretch,
and the thought of making the journey alone quite frankly
sent a shiver through me. My farthest journey south up until
that time had been about 100 miles from the border. What to
do?
I made the decision that this might be
just what I needed, a test as it were, and at any rate I had
invested a fair amount of my resources preparing for this
journey and there was no turning back now. I would be packing
all digital Nikon professional photo equipment, purchased
at Samy's Camera in L.A., and an IBM laptop, as well as a
plethora of electronic devices and recharging gear, not to
mention a variety of gadgets such as a GPS unit, a weather
station meter, some camping equipment and a small library
of books; my biggest fear was losing all of my photo gear
and the 4x4. Yikes!
With the exception of a few, my friends
thought I was nuts, to put it mildly; some thought I was a
fool. Most of them never understood my fascination with Baja
California, Mexican history and culture, and they certainly
didn't understand how I had become smitten with a poor Mexican
girl. As my transformation had begun well before the first
road trip, I had already lost most of my friends from my previous
life in corporate hell; they just couldn't come to terms with
what appeared to be a deranged gray haired ex-information
management geek bailing out of corporate America to chase
some wild fools dream of photographing in Baja. What the hell
was this guy thinking?
As the time came closer to begin the
journey I began to get cold feet. Maybe my friends from the
past were right; maybe I was a fool. Fortunately, one very
good friend stuck with me, and encouraged me to continue on
with the plan. He alone understood that this was becoming
much more than the re-launching of my photography career;
it was shaping up as a personal quest, maybe a catharsis;
perhaps even a search for my lost soul.
The dye was now cast. As the starting
day dawned I faltered; I needed more time for this, time to
check that. I was making excuses, second guessing and doubting
myself. I spent a sleepless night, tossing and turning while
I mulled it all over. 5 am came and I decided if I didn't
go now I never would; with that I reviewed my mental list
of equipment, documents and paraphernalia, packed it all up,
lashed down four 5 gallon cans of gas to the roof rack and
headed for the border.
As I crossed the border at San Ysidro
that morning my gut tightened, as it usually did when I crossed
over into the “other world”. But this time it
was different, somehow I sensed that I was going through a
door; on one side was the past and on the other lay my future.
From that day on the door to my past would be closed, irrevocably,
and there would be no going back. After this journey I would
never be the same again. As I learned later on, this was not
an uncommon experience; it had happened to thousands of others
who have traveled the peninsula before me.....
Welcome to Baja California!
© Stephen Ford Photography 2005
Entry 02: Preparations for a Baja Journey
My first trip down the peninsula started
in front of my computer, doing research on Baja history, towns
and cities, places to stop over for the night and investigating
the road conditions up and down Mexican Highway 1. A necessary
part of preparation required a knowledge of the requisite
documents and legalities of traveling in Mexico. A reading
list was soon developed from searching web sites and Baja
web forums that seemed to be the agreed upon mandatory reference
books for the serious student of Baja and Baja travel.
My early research led me to purchase
the following books, pretty much the standard texts for those
seeking to be well prepared before heading south, listed in
the order of my favorites:
The Baja Almanac Topo Map Book,
and, Baja Fold-Out Map
http://www.baja-almanac.com/
AAA Baja California Guide Book
http://www.aaa-calif.com/
Moon Handbooks: Baja, by
Joe Cummings
http://www.moon.com/
The Magnificent Peninsula, by
Jack Williams
http://www.amazon.com/
The Baja Adventure Book, by
Walt Peterson
http://www.wildernesspress.com/book35.htm
I consider the texts listed above as
the "A" list of books for preparing most travelers
for a Baja journey, and will give you more than enough information
to travel safely and knowledgeably from Tijuana to Cabo. These
books also include a wealth of Baja history, natural history
and lore, as well as practical tips for Baja travel, distance
& time charts with annotations, as well as descriptions
and prices for restaurants and accommodations up and down
the peninsula. Additional reading that I highly recommend
for more specialized needs and expanded interests:
Fishing: The Baja Catch,
by Neil Kelly and Gene Kira
http://bajaquest.com/genekira/
Camping: Foghorn Outdoors:
Baja Camping, by Fred and Gloria Jones
http://www.foghorn.com/
Geology and Biology: Roadside
Geology and Biology of Baja California, by John
Minch
http://www.amazon.com/
Aviation: Air Baja! A Pilots
Guide to the Forgotten Peninsula,
by Galen L. Hanselman
http://www.flyidaho.com/airbajatoc.asp
4x4 Off Road: Shifting
into 4WD, by Harry Lewellyn
http://www.4x4books.com/si4wd.htm
And finally, for those who would like
to read more about accounts of Baja travel and personal experiences,
as well as Mexican history, culture, and language, the following
round out my list of highly recommended reading:
Almost an Island - Travels in
Baja Ca., by Bruce Berger
http://www.amazon.com/
Baja Legends, and,
Baja Fever, by Greg Niemann
http://www.sunbeltpub.com/index.cfm
Into a Desert Place, and,
Journey with a Baja Burro, by Graham Mackintosh
http://www.grahammackintosh.com/
The Unforgettable Sea of Cortez,
Baja’s Golden Age, 1947 – 1977, by
Gene Kira
http://bajaquest.com/genekira/cannon.htm
The Hidden Heart of Baja,
and, Hovering
Over Baja, by Erle Stanley Gardner
http://www.amazon.com/
Distant Neighbors, A Portrait
of the Mexicans, by Alan Riding
http://www.amazon.com/
Fire & Blood, A History of
Mexico, by T.R. Fehrenbach
http://www.amazon.com/
Mexico, Biography of Power; 1810-1996,
by Enrique Krauze
http://www.amazon.com/
The Life and Times of Pancho
Villa, By
Friedrich Katz
http://www.amazon.com/
Zapata and the Mexican Revolution,
by John Womack Jr.
http://www.amazon.com/
Porfirio Diaz, Profiles in Power,
by Paul Garner
http://www.amazon.com/
Mexico, The Struggle for Democratic
Development, by Daniel
C. Levy
http://www.amazon.com/
The Complete Idiots Guide to
Learning Spanish
http://www.amazon.com/
501 Spanish Verbs, by
Christopher Kendris, Ph. D.
http://www.amazon.com/
On the Web there are many excellent sources
of information for all things Baja. The following is a partial
list of useful URL’s for Baja centric web sites, web
forum’s and useful information for the would be Baja
traveler:
http://www.discoverbajacalifornia.com/home.htm
http://www.baja.net/
http://www.maps-of-mexico.com/
http://math.ucr.edu/~ftm/bajaPages/MsgBoard/MsgBoard.html
http://www.bajaquest.com/bajalink.htm
http://www.bajalinks.com/
http://countrystudies.us/mexico/
http://www.angelfire.com/falcon/sundog/Message.html
http://www.bajadestinations.com/index.htm
http://www.harrywcrosby.com/
http://www.lib.utexas.edu/maps/mexico.html
http://gpsinformation.net/
http://www.wvvinc.com/index.asp
http://www.off-road.com/toc/
http://buoyweather.com/
http://www.flybaja.com/
http://www.vivabaja.com/
http://forums.bajanomad.com/index.php
© Stephen
Ford Photography 2005
Entry
03: Driving the Baja Peninsula
Now that we’ve done some preliminary
research and reading it's time to cover some pertinent information
about navigating the roads in Baja California. Mexican Highway
1 is the main thoroughfare that transects the length of the
Baja peninsula, from Tijuana to Cabo San Lucas. Information
presented here is intended for travelers that have never driven
in Baja California before. This section will briefly address
the following:
· General Road Conditions
and Hazards
· Gas Availability and Pricing
· Speed Limits, Police and Radar
· Inclement Weather, Wind and Sand
· Night Driving and Livestock
· Mexican Driving Customs
· Military Check Points
· Insurance, Tourist Visa and Passport
· Vehicle Maintenance
· The Green Angels
· Baja Tourism Web Site
*
General Road Conditions and
Hazards
Narrow roads are the norm for Baja road engineering.
Much has been written about road conditions and driving in
Baja California; suffice to say that once you leave the main
cities the roads are very narrow, and frequently undergoing
some type of repair or construction. This may also apply to
roads in towns as well as in rural areas. The narrowness of
Baja roads are legend, and the danger inherent can’t
be emphasized too strongly. In many places there's just enough
room for vehicles going in opposite directions to pass each
other, especially if the oncoming vehicle is an 18 wheeler,
or motor home, of which there are many of both types traversing
the trans-peninsular highway.
Road shoulders, and lack of them, is
another condition to be aware of on roads in rural areas,
and shoulders that are considerably lower in elevation than
the road bed itself. Dropping the front or back wheel off
the main road in an area with a shoulder grade difference
of 8” to 18” can be a sure fire way to put the
kibosh on an otherwise splendid Baja adventure, or worse,
roll your vehicle with possible fatal consequences. Be aware
also that some curvy road sections through hilly or mountainous
areas will lack guard rails and may have precipitously steep
drop offs on one or both sides of the road. Drive these sections
slowly; don’t end up being road kill or gully chow for
coyotes.
Road signage in the northernmost towns
of Baja can be a bit confusing and at times contradictory.
It is essential that you pay close attention when looking
for signage and think well ahead. Remember, you are not traveling
in the U.S. on a 4 lane Interstate. Several of the books mentioned
in “Journal Entry 02” have an appendix in the
back that show the most frequently encountered Mexican road
signs and their English translations; it is highly recommended
that you become familiar with them.
Topes, or speed bumps, are used along
Baja highways and city streets to keep speeds down just as
they are used in certain places in the U.S. Unfortunately,
in Baja you can come across topes in unusual places, and at
times of unusually large dimension; we’re talking real
bottom scrapers here! Hitting these monsters at speed is a
sure fire way to grind several millimeters off the underside
of your vehicle, or worse, necessitate a visit to the nearest
muffler shop. Sometimes the topes are marked with road paint
and/or a sign, at other times neither.
Pot holes can be another not so fun adventure
on Baja roads and come in a variety of sizes, often quite
large. Hitting a good size pot hole at speed can really ruin
your day and do serious damage to your tires or suspension;
they seem to “grow” in Baja after every rain so
keep your eyes peeled at all times for these nasty buggers.
If you have a “right seater” along with you designate
them as your official topes and pot hole early warning system.
It will give them something to do while you’re figuring
out how to pass that 18 wheeler, motor home, or pick-up truck
towing a boat trailer that has been crawling along in front
of you.
Vados are synonymous with Baja roads
and are frequently constructed where a water course may cross
the road after a heavy rain. Vados are concrete roadway sections
designed for fording streams and to save the road from destruction
after inclement weather. They allow Mexican road engineers
to build roads more economically by avoiding costly civil
engineering, construction grading and the building of small
bridges. After a rain the vados may accumulate debris and
rocks washed down from stream run-off. Reduce your speed and
exercise caution when crossing vados, which are usually clearly
marked by road signs.
*
Gas Availability and Pricing
Another consideration looms large when traveling in
Baja and that is the availability of gasoline. While major
cities like Tijuana, Ensenada, La Paz and Cabo San Lucas all
have ample Pemex gas stations and fuel supplies, there's a
lot of distance in between these northern and southern towns,
and at times availability of fuel can become a problem. For
those planning on traveling Highway 1 further south than El
Rosario it is very important to stop at this little elbow
in the road pueblo and top off your gas tank; this is standard
procedure for all Baja travelers going south. Between El Rosario
and the next gas station with regular supplies of gas is approximately
200 miles of desert, the Desierto Cataviña.
Traveling 85 miles south from El Rosario
is the tiny pueblo of Cataviña, really nothing more
than a way point in the desert with a motel and a 1 pump Pemex
gas station; more often than not it is out of gasoline. For
those who don't mind purchasing gas out of large barrels in
the back of a pick-up truck gas is usually available here
and further down the highway at the Bahia de Los Angeles turn
off. Should you need to resort to this type of supply plan
on paying as much as a dollar a gallon more for your fuel.
About 100 miles south of the L.A. Bay turn off is the next
regular supply of Pemex gas at the Baja California state line
border town of Guerrero Negro. This pueblo is situated on
the border between Baja California and Baja California Sur,
the 2 states that together comprise the Baja Peninsula, and
is adjacent to the famous whale watching area known as Scammon's
Lagoon. This is the principle area of difficulty for those
traveling highway 1. Most other cities along Highway 1 are
not of sufficient distance in between to warrant much concern,
however, always keep an eye on your gas gauge when traveling
in Baja.
Gas prices in Baja many years ago were
cheaper than in the U.S.; then after many peso devaluations
and internal restructuring of the nationally owned petroleum
company, Pemex, the price of gas in Baja became much higher
than in the U.S. As of January, 2005 the price of gas in Baja
is slightly higher, or much higher, depending on where in
Baja you are buying your fuel, what octane you are buying
and whether there is another domestic fuel crisis in the U.S.
A gallon of 87 octane in Baja typically
goes for about $2.20, 91 octane for about $2.60 a gallon.
Premium fuel is often not available in many locations in Baja,
so if you require higher octane fuel bring some octane booster,
or purchase some at the Pemex station. Gas prices in Baja
vary considerably as the more remote or more southern locations
involve transporting gas a greater distance before ending
up at the local Pemex stations. Again, do some web research
before heading south if you’re concerned about the price
of gas and post a question to one of the Baja forum web sites.
If you are getting off the beaten path
on your first journey south you should plan on bringing extra
gasoline in containers, no less than 2 five gallon cans; 4
would better. In a 2001 Toyota 4x4 4Runner with an 18 ½
gallon tank the range is roughly 300 miles to a tank of gas.
20 extra gallons yields a guaranteed range of 600 miles, sufficient
for back country cruising without any anxiety about running
dry and potentially becoming a meal for buzzards and coyotes.
*
Speed Limits, Police and Radar
There are several types of police in Baja, just the
same as in the U.S. Local police vehicles come dressed in
a variety of schemes and car & truck types. The Policia
Federal de Caminos, or Federal Highway Police, drive primarily
black with white trim vehicles and strongly resemble the Calif.
Highway Patrol. This is the most widely distributed and professional
law enforcement group on the peninsula. While the local police
are responsible for their immediate jurisdictions, the Federal
Highway Police are ubiquitous and have authority everywhere.
Recently the California Highway Patrol
and the San Diego Police Department, among others, have donated
their old radar guns and equipment to Baja police agencies
and it is now being deployed in specific areas that we might
refer to as “radar traps”. Areas that are under
radar gun enforcement as of November 2004 are: Highway 2 from
just past the border crossing at San Ysidro heading to Playas
de Tijuana, mid point Highway 1 between Rosarito Beach and
Ensenada; coming into and leaving Ensenada from either direction;
approaching San Quintin from either direction; approaching
Cataviña from either direction; approaching Guerrero
Negro from either direction; approaching La Paz on Highway
1 going south; Highway 1 between San Jose del Cabo and Cabo
San Lucas; entering or departing Cabo San Lucas for Todos
Santos, and anywhere along the road from Todos Santos to La
Paz.
You will find in your travels up and
down the peninsula that the posted speed limits seem inordinately
low in many places, especially in the wide open desert and
remote areas. Keep in mind that all types of vehicles traveling
as slow as 20 miles per hour use Highway 1, and that all manner
of hazards may appear on the road at any time. You will also
find that almost no one adheres to the posted speed limit,
Mexicans and Americans alike. Needless to say this can be
a great source of revenue for local, state and federal agencies.
Should you be pulled over for speeding use caution if you
plan on "negotiating" your fine with local police
officers in Baja; Mexico recently passed laws making it a
crime to offer as well as solicit a bribe.
The typical posted speed limits in many
places in Baja are 60 and 80 kilometers per hour, or 37 and
49 miles per hour; in towns 40 kilometers per hour, or 24
miles per hour. The road between Rosarito Beach and Ensenada
has the highest posted limit in Baja in some places, at 110
Kilometers per hour.
*
Inclement Weather, Wind and Sand
While for much of the year rain is absent from most
of the Baja peninsula, during the winter months, and especially
during the hurricane season, short torrential downpours can
occur, especially in the southern portions of Baja Sur. This
is the time when vados can become very dangerous.
Strong cross winds can occur at any time
of the year and can make driving a slab sided or light vehicle
dangerous on narrow roads. One area particularly prone to
strong winds is the stretch of road south of Guerrero Negro
transecting the Vizcaino Desert. This area is also a major
trucking way point for 18 wheel vehicles and can be rather
challenging in a heavy wind with blowing sand. Another area
that gets occasional strong cross winds is the mid and southern
section of the Cataviña Desert. Since Baja is primarily
a desert blowing sand can be found almost anywhere up and
down the peninsula.
*
Night Driving and Livestock
One thing seasoned Baja travelers are nearly unanimous
on is that driving in Baja at night is an absolute no-no.
Not only are there almost no road lights, frequent areas with
no road signs, pot holes and other previously mentioned hazards,
there is also the presence of free range livestock. These
include, but are not limited to, horses, cows, bulls, goats,
and occasionally sheep or a stray pig. In the winter months
livestock will congregate on or near the road edge at night
to browse for food and keep warm using the remaining heat
of the asphalt. Livestock can appear on the road in numbers
at any time of the day or night but seem to be particularly
prevalent during dusk and dawn. In the summer they are turned
loose by their owners after the heat of the day has passed
, and seem to delight in browsing for food at the roads edge
where there seems to be a tasty abundance. If you just have
to have a bull head with horns on the front of your pick-up
buy it at a local curios shop, don’t have one embedded
from an accidental chance meeting with a toro.
*
Mexican Driving Customs
You’re traveling along in the middle of the Cataviña
Desert, coming up behind an 18 wheeler who, after a short
period of time, turns on his left turn signal blinker. In
that there is nowhere to turn or any intersecting roads within
miles you are a bit puzzled with this behavior; don't be.
The driver is letting you know that he knows you're behind
him and that it's safe for you to pass. This is a very common
and courteous practice among truck drivers and slow moving
locals once you get south of El Rosario. However, do not automatically
assume it is safe to pass, as one mans margin of safety may
not be another's; also, you are the only one who knows how
fast your car can safely accelerate, and what shape in general
your vehicle is in.
Keep in mind that very slow moving vehicles
can appear anywhere on the highway, even if you are miles
from the nearest pueblo. In some agricultural areas of the
peninsula Mexican farm vehicles also use Highway 1 and it
is common practice to give them the right of way; the same
holds true for all Mexican road repair and construction vehicles.
Always keep in mind that we’re visitors, but Baja locals
live hear. Be especially alert for farm vehicles when in the
San Quintin and Ciudad Constitucion areas.
*
Military Check Points
Along Highway 1 there are a number of vehicle check
points manned by the Mexican Army. This is a topic that has
been widely covered in newspapers and on the internet. It
helps to understand that the U.S. government encourages Mexico
to have these check points and that there are a number of
very good reasons for them, too numerous and not appropriate
to discuss here. Whether you agree or disagree with this practice,
are ambivalent towards it or hate it, you are in Mexico, it
is their country and as a sovereign nation they are entitled
to exercise control in any fashion they deem fit. This having
been said, here's what you can expect and what you might do
to make sure things go smoothly:
· You will be asked where you
are coming from and where are you going: tell them
· Smile, be friendly, take off your sunglasses so they
can see your face
· Attempt to speak a few words of Spanish; this goes
a long way
· Be humble, but not subservient
· If it’s obvious they are searching everyone’s
vehicle get out before they ask you to
· Keep valuable articles, such as cameras, in your
plain sight or secured in baggage
· Keep secure all valuable documents such as passports
and vehicle docs; never leave your wallet in the
vehicle
· Stand right next to your vehicle and watch closely
as they search it
· Don’t be a butthead
Keep in mind that these young men searching
your vehicle are camping out in remote, hot and/or cold places,
are generally from poor families, and that they are trying
to better their lives by joining the military. They are confronted
on a daily basis with a stream of what appears to them to
be “rich” tourists. Try putting yourself in their
place; it’s tough as hell to do this for 12 hours a
day for many months on end while living in a tent. If you
have any bottled water, Gatorade or sodas, fruit or candy
that you can share with them please do. It will be greatly
appreciated.
*
Insurance, Tourist Visa and Passport
Number 1 rule regarding car travel in Mexico: get Mexican
insurance. If you are going for a short period of time there
are numerous places to purchase insurance just prior to crossing
the border. For extended stays consider a Baja travel club
that provides reduced rates typically in 1 month, 3 month,
6 month and 1 year increments. If you have an accident in
Baja and you don’t have insurance your car will be impounded
and you may well be held in jail until it is ascertained who
is at fault and whether you have the financial ability to
settle all claims; and this won’t happen overnight.
It’s their law, respect it.
Also, be aware that most, though not
all, Mexican insurance policies pay the going rate for repairs
IN MEXICO, not the USA. Some Mexican insurance underwriters
mandate that the car be fixed in Mexico in the event of an
accident as well. Check your insurance policy very carefully
and ask your agent or representative regarding this most important
clause.
Always take a passport with you when
traveling in Baja, especially in this post 911 era; at some
point in the very near future you may be required to show
a passport to get back into the U.S.
Tourist visas are required for visits
longer than a 72 hour period, or if you are traveling further
than 60 miles from the border. The only location that will
ask for your tourist visas is the state line agricultural
check point station between Baja California and Baja California
Sur, about 450 miles south of the border and just north of
Guerrero Negro. If you join a Baja travel club you can get
the documents and pay the fees, have them filled out by the
travel club rep, as well as getting your insurance, all at
the same time and in one place. Baja travel clubs generally
cost about $35 to $40 dollars for a 1 year membership. You
will still need to have your tourist visa stamped as valid
at a Mexican immigration office at the border, but there is
no additional fee.
Otherwise, acquiring a visa in Mexico
is a 3 step convoluted process that involves picking up the
paperwork at a Mexican immigration office and filling it out
yourself, going to a Mexican bank and paying the fee, then
returning to the immigration office to have it stamped. I
recommend joining a Baja travel club and saving a lot of time,
hassle and gas. You should ask that your tourist visa be made
good for 6 months, the maximum length of time allowed. When
your visa expires, actually before, you must turn in your
visa at an immigration office. If you turn in your visa after
the expiration date you can be fined up to $200.
And needless to say, always travel with a valid drivers license
and an up to date vehicle registration card. If you are driving
someone else's vehicle, or your vehicle is registered in someone
else's name, you must have a signed and notarized paper stating
that you have permission to drive the vehicle in Baja California.
*
Vehicle Maintenance
Do not travel to Baja without having your vehicle completely
checked by your mechanic. Breaking down in Baja is not a fun
experience. Also, make sure your tires are in very good condition
and that you have a spare tire and have had it checked before
your departure. While there are many mechanics in Baja and
many of them quite good, their idea of what’s a good
fix might be a tad different than yours. Also, they don’t
do the “electronic engine analyzer” thing like
your local Toyota dealer. And make sure you pack a modest
and small tool kit, as it could come in handy for minor repairs.
*
The Green Angels
The Green Angels are the Baja equivalent of the AAA
Auto Club emergency roadside service. Their name derives from
the fact that their trucks are all painted green. The Green
Angels can provide minor repairs, gasoline or call you a tow
if you are stranded anywhere along Highway 1; they charge
for some of their services, such as giving you gas, and they
do not take plastic.
*
The Baja California Official Tourism Web Site
The official Baja California Tourism web site has a wealth
of information for travelers; and always check the Baja web
forums for current Baja conditions before departing on a journey
south of the border. Post an RFI regarding any questions or
concerns you may have about traveling in Baja several days
prior to your planned departure date.
http://www.discoverbajacalifornia.com/home.htm
© Stephen
Ford Photography 2005
Entry 04: The Baja 1000; Helicopters over B.O.L.A.
The Journey had an auspicious beginning.
Crossing the border at San Ysidro and heading west on Highway
2 toward Playas de Tijuana and the toll road I was nabbed
by the Policia: a Tijuana motorcycle cop clocked me with his
radar gun doing 60 mph in a 45 mph zone. Malo, muy malo. As
he approached my car I could see that his gear was in impeccable
condition, all new leather meticulously cared for, gleaming
in the sunshine. Based on his appearance he wasn't one of
your "poor" Tijuana policeman, notoriously underpaid.
“Señor, eet’s thee
leetle numbers on the speedometer, not thee beeg numbers”,
he emphasized after I rolled down my window. I pointed out
that many people were passing me by in the left hand lane,
but he was unfazed. “Señor, the speed limit ees
60 kilometers por hora”. He showed me the radar gun,
donated by the California Highway Patrol, the number read-out
being 107 kilometers per hour. He had me dead to rights; we
both knew it.
He asked if I had the time to go to the
Police station to pay the 1,050 peso fine, although this is
no longer required under Mexican law. I said no, and asked
was he sure that the fine was that much. He decided that we
could settle it here and now, and if I didn’t require
a “receipt” he would be willing to give me “thee
leetle ticket” rather than the “grande”.
The “little” ticket was $40 on the spot with no
further action necessary. So I broke my rule regarding “negotiating”
with the Baja Police. I looked at it philosophically: he probably
had a wife and kids so this was my contribution to his “familia”.
The rest of the 5 hour drive to San Quintin,
my first stop for the night, was uneventful. The countryside
in the rolling hill vineyard and rancho areas was beautiful
as there had been much rain in the last month and everything
was bright green, wildflowers blooming everywhere. If rain
fell regularly on the Baja peninsula it would be a veritable
garden.
I pulled off Highway 1 at the turn-off
out to Bahia San Quintin and the Old Mill hotel; the dirt
washboard road had turned muddy and pot holed, a frequent
occurrence after rainy weather. Ah hah...A good reason to
put 'er in 4x4 and play the "mud slide 'n pot hole"
polka! Javier greeted me in the court yard entrance to the
hotel with a beer in hand, the standard custom for guests
newly arriving; nice custom this.
“Numero 21 Señor Esteban?”
“Si, por favor”; my “usual” room was
ready and waiting for me. After settling in I went back down
to the office and talked with Javier about my trip to Bahia
de Los Angeles in November to photograph the Baja 1000 off
road race. He inquired as to whether I had managed to get
some time in a helicopter to do some aerial photography over
Bahia L.A. I had previously mentioned to him that there was
a possibility of hooking up with a pilot friend who was flying
for Fox Studios shooting an IMAX movie documentary on the
Baja Mil.
“Si Señor, an hour over
Bahia the day after the race!” He could tell from my
grin that it was a most pleasurable event. “Fotografías?”,
he inquired, as he pointed to my truck, in which I normally
carry several envelopes of 18x12 color enlargements. We popped
another beer and I produced some aerial photos and race photos
from the Baja 1000 for Javier to peruse. “Muy bonito!”,
he exclaimed; very beautiful. In my travels in Baja, and from
my readings on Mexican culture I had come to understand there
was a tremendous appreciation, almost a reverence, for the
arts and artisans. This cuts across all levels of Mexican
society and classes. Frequently at the Military vehicle check
points up and down Baja, once it’s discovered that I’m
a photographer, I’m asked if I have a sample of my work
with me. When I produce some photographs the attitude is almost
immediately one of respect and genuine interest, especially
if the photos are of their beloved "Patria".
As Javier reviewed my photos I thought
back to the Baja 1000 and my Bahia L.A. copter adventure.
The day of the race I was sitting on the 2nd story deck of
Raquel & Larry’s rambling 2 story ranch house discussing
photo shoot strategies and locations with a young guy and
his very beautiful model girlfriend from Costa Mesa, California.
They were providing support at 2 different locations for one
of the trophy truck teams and were busy checking GPS way points
and finalizing their time table. Their first support location
would be at El Crucero, about 20 miles north of the Bahia
L.A. junction, mid-point in the Desierto Cataviña.
They suggested that this might be a good location for me based
on the criterion I had described for a desert backdrop for
the race vehicles. This also squared with the information
I had received from several well traveled desert racers I
had queried on the Baja.net web forum.
From my research I had determined that
the trophy trucks, my prime photographic interest, would be
coming through El Crucero at about 4:15 pm, giving me the
type of light I was seeking, but leaving me with a very short
window of time for photographing before the sun would set
and darkness would envelop the desert.
As I headed out into the desert in the
late afternoon light, shadows beginning to draw long, I was
again struck by the beauty of this most incredible and unique
stretch of landscape, unlike any other desert in the world.
Many of the plant species here are indigenous to only this
desert, found in no other environment in the world. The light
here is phenomenal and the vistas expansive and breath taking.
As I pulled off Mexican Highway 1 onto
the dirt trail for El Crucero and a rendezvous with these
awesome dirt machines I was greeted by a veritable fiesta
in the middle of the desert. Every type of vehicle, from huge
trucks to motorcycles to motor homes, quads to old beat up
pick-ups to sedans, were all parked helter skelter in weeds
and brush waist high, awaiting the arrival of the racers.
People were standing everywhere at the edge of the narrow
desert trail for a chance to view the trucks and bikes as
they tore through this elbow in the desert race course. Some
racers would stop for fuel or tires, others would pit farther
down the course. Various helicopters swooped, turned and hovered
overhead, adding to the cacophony of noise as all anxiously
awaited the arrival of the first surging mechanized desert
beasts.
A lone figure stood out across the race
track from where I had positioned myself, silver hair gleaming
and unruffled; it was the legendary
Ivan
Stewart, the “Iron Man” himself. Ivan
is a multiple time champion of the Baja Mil, in several different
classes, having completed the entire 1000 mile race, from
Ensenada to La Paz, solo; hence the term was coined “The
Iron Man”.
As the first trucks charged through,
throwing clouds of sand, dust and dirt covered everything
and everyone. In the slanting golden shafts of light the effect
was beautiful and surreal. As I got closer and closer to the
action, zooming in and out with a long telephoto lens, a hand
suddenly appeared on my shoulder and pulled me slightly backwards.
“Señor, you are just a little bit too close to
the trucks; please be careful!” A very well meaning
Mexican gentlemen, with his family looking on in astonishment,
was cautioning this lame old gringo photographer not to get
my ass run over, especially right in front of his family!
Leaving after sunset and driving back
on the junction road to Bahia L.A., the road becomes part
of the race course for the Baja Mil. Racers zooming up from
behind, engines screaming and passing in the darkness, on
a twisting turning Baja desert road, will put the fear of
God into even the most hardened and experienced traveler;
it certainly did to me!
The next morning little Bahia de Los
Angeles had returned to it’s sleepy natural state, the
racers and their support crews having vanished in the late
night and early morning hours and headed south to race and
chase their trucks and bikes towards the grand finale in La
Paz. I was up early and heading for the airstrip to see if
I could track down my pilot friend from San Diego. As I pulled
up on to a mesa, the asphalt air strip rolling out in front
of me, I spied the flatbed truck with the gleaming silver
tanks that transported the AV gas from San Diego to Bahia
L.A. The driver told me that the pilots were all staying at
Hotel Los Vientos at the north end of the bay, and if I was
to catch them before they took off I’d best beat feet
up there right away. The quickest way to the hotel was down
the airstrip; lead footing it down the runway I felt like
the truck was about to take off!
I arrived at the palapa beach front restaurant
and hotel just as the pre-flight checks were being completed
on the copters. My friend Ivor Shear, president and chief
pilot of Corporate Helicopters out of Montgomery Field, San
Diego, was ready to mount up the spiffy red 2 seater with
the IMAX camera dangling from the side. I was greeted with
a “Stephen, you’re here! Glad you could make it;
ready to go flying?” I would imagine the mile wide grin
on my face answered that question.
As we mounted up the red machine I was
given a technology “briefing” regarding the IMAX
set-up and then off we went, my cameras cradled in my lap.
Taking off in a helicopter is a different sensation than taking
off in a fixed wing aircraft; the ground just seems to fall
away from beneath you. In a matter of minutes we were at cruising
altitude, not very high on account of the need to conserve
gas; the panoramic view in the morning sun, shadows and glowing
light beams painting the islands in this huge bay, was simply
spectacular. As I snapped away furiously, front, right and
down between my legs, I glanced over at the pilot, effortlessly
moving stick and pedals, guiding us over and around some of
the most beautiful desert island and bay landscape in Baja
California. The view of the desert islands from the air resembled
beige and copper colored dumplings floating in an ice blue
sea of gravy.
I thought back to several of Erle Stanley
Gardner’s books about his travels in Baja in the early
60’s, and in particular “Hovering Over Baja”.
This is a classic work detailing Gardner’s adventures
in a helicopter with Bob Boughton and in a light plane with
the legendary Capt. Muñoz. What Bahia de Los Angeles
and Baja California must have looked like 45 years ago, when
the roads were all dirt, gas scarce and the country unspoiled
by developments and resort hotels, I can only imagine.
As my mind came back to the present the
pilot glanced in my direction and mused: “…and
we call this work…”, with a grin on his mug to
match my own.
As we landed and dismounted the copter
Ivor asked me what I thought about the flight. My response:
“Christmas came early this year Big Guy!!”; and
so it had. Just another day at the office for the pilot, but
an experience I will remember as one of my most memorable
Baja journeys.
© Stephen
Ford Photography 2005
And a shameless plug for my copyright attorney,
Eric Hanscom, a great
guy and an excellent lawyer for anything related to copyrights,
trademarks and patents, as well as I.P. protection:
http://www.erichanscom.com/
to be continued...
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